Off to Baja again.. YEAH! So this trip began pretty much like it did last year, except this time we relinquished all possessions, anything and everything that we had. What ever fit on the bikes we took, as everyone knows we carry a lot of stuff. Jokingly, we always say we took everything but the kitchen sink.. HA HA
A awesome surprise this year was a call from our Calgary buddies Elle and Grant. They were in Portland and wanted to ride together to San Fransisco. COOOOL!! So we met up with them in Oregon and headed south.
It was soooooooooo wet!!! So wet in fact, that the color from the gloves bled through.. But we are all troopers so we powered through. We headed south on the 101. Beautiful, wonderful coastal scenery even in the rain. Next Next day we headed to the Redwoods, of course, it is still raining and we had a lot of miles to cover that day.. It was so cool riding together made the wet and cold much more bearable.. We rode so much in the rain that day that we were ALL EXHAUSTED! Powering through twisty turny mountain roads in the rain was kinda tricky but who doesn’t love a challenge. The sun starting going down and we still had about 75 miles to go. We finally found the hwy we were looking for and then Eureka the exit to the warm cozy motel waiting for us. We came off the exit running pretty fast and Rich yells in my headset “stop slow down tight curve” so I grabbed to much break and sure enough I hit the WET SLICK painted arrow and my bike pitched me off and I began to slide and slide and slide backwards with my bike right next to me. With Grant and Elle right behind watching disbelief, Grant told me all I saw was your eyes looking at me while sliding, which I don’t remember at all.. I have never experienced anything like this when the bike went over it was like slow motion, I knew I was sliding I knew my bike was next to me, I even saw the word DAKAR right by me the entire time. I remember thinking “umm this isn’t so bad nothing hurts until I finally stopped. I was waiting for the sudden THUNK.. That hurt I smacked my head and slammed my left shoulder into the bike. I was so lucky because the ground was so slick it was like a slip and slide. I remember laying on my back listening to horns honking, watching Rich trying to get off his bike, and Elle rushing over to see if I was ok and thinking.. WOW! I am ok, moving my toes and hands checking my helmet and even checking my pulse, yepp it’s all good. I however could not bring myself to getting back on the bike to ride the 2 miles to the motel, so Elle bless her heart piled me in on her bike, Rich followed and Grant stayed with my bike. Rich then rode back with Elle to get my bike. I immediately soaked in a long HOT bath.
Made it to San Clemente It was a really cute little motel, we even parked our bikes on the patio.. However, it was not a very restful night..LOL.. We had a heartbroken drunk neighbor who serenaded us ALL NIGHT.. Finally we had enough and requested that maybe he should get some rest. After a few hours he began the cat yowling tune once again, so we finally gave in and got up, packed our gear and off to Escondido Ca.
We had a great dinner and awesome night’s rest.
Next morning Baja bound.. Yeah.. Our scheduled stop was Ensenada for the night. Last time we were in Baja we neglected to get all our paper work to cross over on the Ferry, so this time we stopped and It wasn’t a hassle at all it just took a while, lot’s of walking back in forth in the same building. By the time we left it was getting late so we basically grabbed the closest hotel once we got into Ensenada.. We found a awesome little hotel right off the highway with a garage no less.. When we pulled into the garage Rich looked a bit puzzled. Later I would know why.. We walked up stairs and it was a nice room with a big bed and nice bathroom, not bad for 300 pesos about $20.00.. In the room there was a chair and next to the chair was a menu.. Hm I picked up the menu and OH MY yep this was a sex motel, known in Mexico as a auto motel. Well the puzzled look on Richards face was the stack of personal lubrication next to the girl at the window. The place was immaculate and it had a garage, this was just fine.. There was a grocery store next to the motel so we walked over and gathered stuff up for dinner. I think it was Thanksgiving so they had some good stuff in the cases to munch on cold.. That will work.. They always have the best pastries so desert and breakfast was taken care of..We decided to stay 2 nights because we had to change the tire on Rich’s bike It was reaching dinner time and we both thought tacos sounded delicious, we had the camp stove and a garage to heat up the tortillas, what could go wrong. This night would be referred to as the day Rich almost blew up the sex motel. The evening events went like this we heated up the tortillas and ate our tacos. Rich went downstairs to disassemble the stove and put things away. He started to disconnect the hose from the pressure tank to the stove and then thought he should burn off the remaining fuel in the hose and pressure tank, so he turned the pressure tank upside to vent the pressure and lit the stove with his lighter. He immediately watched the flames dance from the stove up the pressure hose to the tank and the puddle of fuel (gasoline) that had leaked on the floor. So he can’t tighten the hose because it is covered in flames and way hot. So he moved the burning stove away from the puddle of fuel about 5 feet away and now there are a few things on fire, the stove, the pressure tank, and the puddle of fuel on the floor. Richard is usually very good at remaining calm so he was desperately trying to figure out how to resolve this problem without causing a severe panic on my part. He looked around the garage to see if there was anything he could use, then realized he had disconnected the garage door to plug in our battery charger from when we changed the tire. Last resort call for help…His voiced shaky he loudly yelled “I need a wet towel Now” ! I having no clue what was happening so I got up and went into the bathroom to get a wet towel my action were not quick enough for the chaos happening downstairs, Rich ran upstairs and grabbed the towel out of my hand ran back downstairs and instructed me to stay put. At this point I was highly curious of what was really happening down there. He was able to douse out all the flames with the wet towel and save the sex motel from being blown up. My Hero! Had the flames melted the plastic pump on the pressure tank the potential explosion would have been very bad!
Next day we were headed to San Quintin on the way we stopped an took in the scenery. We saw some horses and a baby donkey.. We also some amazing foliage It was getting late and we were running out of sunlight quick, as you know you do not ride in the dark in Mexico, due to cattle. Rich had heard about the fishing village outside of town so we headed that way and of course we got lost. So now it’s dark and we have no clue where to stay, I saw a sign on the highway with a arrow pointing down the street that said “HOTEL” We found ourself at a pretty swanky beach motel, at this point we had no choice but to get a room. It was so empty there was no one on the beach and or in the hotel. It was gorgeous.. But, it was a bit out of our price range so hightailed it out of there early in the morning. Bound for Guerrero Negro, we had stayed there before so we knew where we were going. we however, never ventured past town to see what the salt-flats were like so we wanted to do that this time.
I did some research that night and found a place called La Bufadora Inn not to far from us. It was in Bahia Asuncion. This place was amazing!!! We were so happy we went, the experience was so so so cool!There were a few rooms to choose from here, kinda small, med and large. We chose the small room, which wasn’t small at all it was quite cumfy! The view from the patio was simply tranquil and the food was unbelievable. Shari and Juan were so nice and so welcoming. The meals were so inexpensive and so good there, plus Shari was a greta chef! There was also Coco and Cafe my two buddies why were also my tour guides to the beach. We stayed 3 nights and every morning my buddies came and got me to go for a walk. The views here were breathtaking I highly recommend this place when in Baja..
Next we were now heading to my favorite place Mulege, my home away from home. Richard and I have become very close to Sylvia the owner of the Hotel Terrazaz. We did not have far to go so we decided to stop in San Ignacio and have lunch. There was the usual military presence. I had wanted a picture for a while with them all in the back of the truck, because they always waved and greeted us with nothing but smiles. So I thought what the heck they were very obliging. We also stopped by Volcan Las Virgenes (three volcanos)
We arrived in Mulege late that afternoon and as we pulled up to the hotel both Sylvia and Ana ran out to give us a hug.. Mulege has been named the paradise of Baja for good reason.. Our friend’s Elle and Grant contacted us, they were in Baja .. YEAH! We met up at Conception Bay to camp for a few days and what a blast we had.. This particular beach was home to a very nice goat herder.
This was as far south as we have ever gone so we were ready to take on uncharted territory. The next day we headed south towards La Paz. There wasn’t much scenery on this ride and a lot of construction so it took a while to get there. We found a motel on the side of the highway that looked pretty good from the outside and once we stepped inside the gates I was like WOW It was about 450 pesos which is about $30-35 not to bad. The name Hotel Paradise, very fitting! Great food and great service!
The next morning I had made arrangements with man named Eddy who owned the campground I found in El Cardonal. We were planning on staying there a week until Eddy came back from La Paz. The ride there was really pretty. We went through Las Barriles and up the mountain to the little town of El Cardonal. It took us while to get there only because the view was so awesome we had to stop and take some pictures. The road there was pitted and sandy but somewhat paved. Once we reached Eddy’s place we rode through the gate and were greeted by two doggies, later they become our buddies.. We were able to set up camp pretty much anywhere we wanted because the place was empty..
There was even a table out there for us to use. Plus Eddy said we could use the bungalows for showers and restrooms.. Rich was able to fish and I took pictures and played with dogs on the beach.. The sunsets were breathtaking along with the views. We also had a rooster and a chicken that would come over and munch on the tortillas.The birdlife there was pretty spectacular too! There was a pretty cute restaurant up the road a bit with really good food and a patio with a awesome view! This was a really nice week and unfortunately, this was also the week I received the news that Mother had passed away so we had to head back to the states. We packed up all our gear and headed North. I have to say riding was really a challenge I couldn’t stop crying and we had to stop at the next town. I needed a few days..
We stayed in San Barrilo actually Buena Vista which, is right outside of San Barrilo. It was a beautiful beach town. On our way back north we also came across a mountain covered in raw crystals We also stopped and talked to fellow rider, CarryWe ended up riding together and splitting a room El Rosario at Mamma Espinoza’s place, highly recommended very nice and cozy!